I LOVE #2: Go Surfing

While on vacation a few weeks ago and I completed (slightly) #2 on my 30@30 list: Go Surfing. This was a big one for me. Since I first hit the waves years ago surfing has been a surreal activity that I only occasional get to do. While I was only in the water for an hour or so, and only got up maaaaaybe twice, I'm still going to grudgingly count it, since I don't know if I will have another opportunity.

Just like my last post, this one has a lot to do with my summer in Ocean City. The house had two surfboards that had been handed down over the years. They were junk, but they floated, and most of the time kept you above water! What I loved almost immediately about surfing was the rush of riding the waves. That feeling, when you hit a wave just before it crests, and it takes you and your board with amazing speed, its awesome! In Ocean City it was so easy to love. Many mornings I would wake up early, sit on the porch with coffee, then take the board and my work clothes and hit the water before I went to work. Most of the time I would paddle beyond the break and just lay there, looking over the blue ocean at the newly risen sun, and back at the boardwalk. It always seemed so far away, and it was like being out there on my surfboard, it would put me in a place where no one could reach me. I was alone, in the BEST sense of the word. Some days, I would even go right back out after work.

After that summer I didn't surf until after I graduated and lived by the Outer Banks. Even then it was only twice or so, and it would be a few years later that I would get the chance again.
However, going out this past summer, paddling past the break, sitting on the board looking over the ocean, it still gave me a sense of peace....and then a rush as I headed into a wave.:)

#2: Go Surfing